Sydney, Beautiful Sydney

If I have to live in winter, I’ll choose Sydney – beautiful sunny days with cool air-condition weather. Actually, if I have to live in Spring, Summer or Fall, I’d still choose Sydney. It’s a no brainer actually.

Sydney is the best of all worlds. On the ocean where beautiful beaches abound, the big city life playing with the pleasures of beautifully landscaped national parks lining the coast. You can be in complete serenity gazing at the horizon or in the hustle and bustle of things shopping to your heart’s content. You can travel by train, car, bicycle or ferry with the assurance of everything working as it should and the confidence that you will be safe anywhere and everywhere. At all times surrounded by a people who enjoy life, respect others and cherish their environment.

Your entertainment can range from a relaxing day at the beach – a choice of a multitude of beaches all with white sand and ocean blue waters – a delightful glass of wine or coffee at a side walk cafe – a delectable choice of meals at well appointed or very rustic restaurants – bar hopping at its best – or simply a stay at home meal enjoying the company of your boys and girls.

I’ve fallen in love with this city – quite unexpectedly.

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We will see each other again.

Not quite the end

Not a moment to spare we head to Gerroa, a small town of 497 inhabitants 2 hours’ drive south of Sydney. An amazing view of Seven Mile beach greets us as we enter the beach house just in time to watch the sun set. Welcoming and much needed after our trek across the Kimberley. Jessica’s dad, Bruce and brother, Duncan, have joined us for the weekend.

A drive to Kangaroo Valley takes us through the rolling hills of farming country – dairy, beef and surprisingly sheep, with the odd field of horses. The quaint towns of Berry, Robertson and Kamia delight us with their charming architecture and country feel – clean, well organised and beautifully landscaped – and of course with coast line forever at arm’s reach.

Serene, crisp, hmmm just beautiful.

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With Bruce (left) and Duncan (middle)

With Bruce (left) and Duncan (middle)

View from our appt

View from our appt

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Is this really the end

You come to realise that this camping thing that we do on holiday is more than that for most of the people you meet on the way. It’s really a way of life for them. Some have been at it for years, some months, some have sold everything they have and are travelling and working their way through Aussie as a means to learning and experiencing what this amazing country has to offer. A tempting prospect as you enjoy the simplicity of life, the generosity and openness of those you meet, not to mention the share beauty of world around you.

As we drive into Darwin, weary from the long road trip and not too sure what to expect, as Darwin is often referred to as the hole of North Australia, we are faced with what seems to be a metropolis and are now not quite sure how to fit in with our camping gear, dirty cars and sand blown bodies. We stop on the esplanade taking in the beauty of the coast and the splendour of the landscaping.

Where to stay – the eternal question – finding it hard to return to a camp site within this space of civilisation. The boys and girls come to the rescue – booking a mystery 6-person accommodation with what seems like all the amenities. Arriving at our destination, we are catapulted into the modern world and loving every minute of it. Thanks guys – your generosity is much appreciated. We are all smiling not only because of the classy end to our adventure but certainly because of a fabulous journey across the Kimberley. We celebrate with an authentic Indian meal and some wine, of course, reminiscing the most precious moments of our adventure.

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The view from our last camp site

The view from our last camp site

Our last camp site courtesy the kids

Our last camp site courtesy the kids

So which gorge is the best?

The votes are in –
– Winjanna because of the crocs and sheer beauty
– Sir John’s gorge where the sunset was just amazing
– Manning gorge, the best place to swim
– El Questro – the climb was slow and the pools clear, cool and oh so clean..

… in other words, we really can’t decide…. can you?

What a life.

To awaken to the birds chirping and the serenity of water moving on a lake by an oh so gentle breeze as the sun rises at your back bringing with it much needed warmth and the varying shadows on the water, has got to be one of life’s most treasured moments – not to mention the fortune of not being attacked by ‘salties’ while asleep.

What we missed last night

What we missed last night

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Enjoying the moment

Enjoying the moment

Our last two days across the Kimberley. What an adventure in the outback. Beautiful landscape, amazing gorges, fabulous sunsets, interesting challenges, crossing of paths of many like-minded persons, sharing, learning, laughing – all in all, not a bad holiday.

We stop at a camp site just outside of Katherine for the night and share in the beauty of nature as we finally get a glimpse of the black Cockatoo and marvel, once again, in the sun setting over the land.

The elusive Black Cockatoo

The elusive Black Cockatoo

Ending the day in peace

Ending the day in peace

And starting just as peacefully

And starting just as peacefully

To Bungle Bungle and beyond

Having arrived late into the camp last night, we are now awakening to our real surroundings. We are at the edge of a highway but graced with a bbque pit, tables and chairs and yes facilities – with a gas station at our beck and call. Even with this wonderous site, we pull ourselves away to get an early move on to our next destination – The Bungle Bungle.

What an amazing show of rock formation – all the tour books are right, pictures just do not do it justice, but I certainly tried well onto my 2000th picture for the trip. We sit and snack while pondering the towering pillars of the Cathedral gorge surrounding a pool of water, imagining what this place must look like earlier on in the dry season when there is much more water. And to think that we may have missed this.
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Elephant Rock

Elephant Rock

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Leaving the Bungle Bungle, we head onto Kununurra trying our best to reach before dark – and just in time we do, pulling into what is one of the best campsites thus far as we find ourselves seated on the lake enjoying the lights across the water.

Mention of ‘salties’ come up (salt water crocodiles) and we cautiously set the tents a bit back away from the water line, not enough though to avoid the creatures should they decide to visit.

Ah well, the adventure continues.

What will you look like tomorrow?

What will you look like tomorrow?

Screeeech – everything comes to a halt

So our day starts off as any other – Early morning rise all saddled up and ready to go, across creeks, wild fields and the corral – quiet, cool, with only the clip clopping of the horses’ hooves and Roger’s rattling on and on with Sam, the cowboy.
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Sam and Laura - Cowboy and Cowgirl

Sam and Laura – Cowboy and Cowgirl

We’re on our way to our next destination so a quick breakfast and oops, a flat. No worries, been there done that. Just as we are setting off to Emma gorge and the Bungle Bungle – SCREECH – a sudden change of plans. As I stand peacefully across from the workshop where the tyre is being repaired, I witness a large sun umbrella being picked up by the wind and flown onto our car cracking the windscreen. Surreal, everything happening in slow motion. Pause, a long pause.

Let’s start over….
A quick breakfast and oops, a flat. No worries, been there done that. As the flat is being repaired we enjoy a quiet peaceful lunch at the steakhouse restaurant in ElQ as our chauffeur waits to drive us to Emma gorge while our car, with the broken windscreen, is taken to Thrifty 120 km away, to be repaired courtesy ElQ.

No worries - lunch is on the way

No worries – lunch is on the way

Emma gorge, like all other gorges is filled with rocks or rather boulders and ends with an amazing waterfall and pool – this one lined with ferns and water so clear and cold it’s unbelievable.

Should I or shouldn't I?

Should I or shouldn’t I?

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People of Australia
Harry and Kay
“We are retired and have been travelling Aussie for 4 years now. I don’t know how I ever worked 8 hours a day. Of course from time to time we take a holiday from our travels and spend some time in our home on Cairns, but this is pretty much our life.”

Harry and Kay

Harry and Kay

We enjoy our peaceful surroundings and await the return of our car which finally arrives at 5.15pm. In spite of the pending sunset and darkness, we decide to move ahead with our plan to get as close to the Bungle Bungle as possible. Two hours of driving along the Great Northern Highway passing at least 10 road trains and very few other vehicles, we arrive at a campsite – well a gas station posing as a campsite and just in time, too, as well as the guy says ” I was just about to close. Set up and see me in the morning”. And in two twos, tents are set and we crash.

We’ll get a closer look at our surroundings in the morning.

Gorge after Gorge after Gorge

Which gorge is the best? We’re at serious odds with this one. Each one brings its own unique ‘specialness’ – waterfalls, tall sheer sides, cool swimming, flora and fauna, sunset worthy. Hmm we’ll see after ElQ and Emma gorge.

“All I really want is a camp site overlooking the river,” says Josh. As we sit very comfortably enjoying the cool breeze and the calls of the flocks of white cockatoos, we notice a clearing on the river. Many campers have left this morning leaving us to revel in the silence and beauty of this place. Further investigations reveal that the spot is not only on the river but, lo and behold, has a fire pit – what more can you wish for.

And so without further ado we ups and move site – well the boys anyway, and it’s quite amusing. I sit, watch and will move when the time is right, ie when there’s nothing for me to take but my glass of wine. Ah well, the Trini etc. nomads.

Campsite is relocated one tent at a time

Campsite is relocated one tent at a time

ElQ gorge provides a most unusual sight with Palm trees lining the gorge, large pandanas spotting the trail and lots and lots of large rocks. Squeezing through the crack of two tall walls of stone using new found rock climbing skills, crossing many small pools of clear refreshing water and finally reaching a small pool at the base of a slim but impressive waterfall, if only because we’ve climbed so far to reach it.

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And what’ your best part of the day?

5 minutes of solitude in the hammock in the morning – truly a treat for whoever is lucky enough to snatch it

Climbing the rocks was quite a challenge that once overcome brought a great sense of satisfaction – the rock in the middle was a literally a stumbling block or temporarily anyway. But oh what a spot for swimming and jumping

Ben’s attempt to kiss the rocks – he is definitely the most agile of all of us but so intent on making sure his mum was ok, took his eyes off the trail for a second, slipped and well kissed the rocks with quite a smack.

3 snake sightings – probably poisonous – well in Aussie, it’s 90% in favour of being poisonous.

Reaching the last hoorah – always a triumph

People of Aussie
“I find the Aussies are so friendly and helpful,” says Ben. And that’s really been our experience. “Need some help mate?” – words we hear all the time. Just two seconds under the car and a gentleman strolls up offering assistance. Some wire, a plyers and a newspaper thrown in for reading or bbque purposes later, car is fixed and an Aussie has once again come to the rescue.

The boys are currying beef tonight – personally, my favourite part of the day especially when accompanied by a great sunset.
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El Questro here we come!

We awake with the screaming of our Bahamian – “There’s a spider in my tent. Get it out.” Hyperventilation, scampering. “I think it’s poisonous”, jokes one of the boys. More scampering, more hyperventilation. We calm down, we giggle, we get rid of the spider.

We’re now on our way to El Questro. Even though it’s a long haul, deliberations among the group have set us on a path straight to ElQ in an effort to spend more than just one night at our next destination.

7 hours of varying landscape – from dirt road to paved to stone, lead us along the Gibb River Road to our destination. And wow well worth the drive. Horses graze as the sun sets, a Roadhouse with a bar and shop, a restaurant and lots of shady trees. Yes well worth the effort.

From dirt road to...

From dirt road to…

.. paved to dirt road again.

.. paved to dirt road again.

What’s your best time today?

That quick morning swim in the Manning Gorge before breakfast – cool refreshing and just invigorating enough to get you through the long haul ahead.

The fabulous panoramic view of the Cockburn mountain range was a stunner. We all gasped and of course made our own contribution to the hippy rock piles and move on. The Trini etc. posse was definitely here.

Cockburn Range in the background

Cockburn Range in the background

Crossing the Pentecost River

Crossing the Pentecost River

And simply, some of us are just awed with the facilities at ElQ – just gives you an idea of what we’ve been through over the past few days. “This is what I’ve been looking like for the past few days!”, we comment in sheer disgust. But really who cares.

The really best part of the day however is right now, sharing our ‘best parts of the day’, sipping a glass of wine, Josh teaching Ben to cook a fabulous meal of lamb chops, mashed potatoes and baked beans – laughing, sharing, being. Blessings!

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Are we really camping?

Are we really camping?

Not again….

Leaving early with the primary intention of repairing one flat tyre and heading to Manning gorge for the day. Another beautiful day in the Kimberley.

The drive out proves to be even more interesting with a different perspective on the views coming in and even more adventurous as we encounter another set back – not only time wise but the budget is hit BOOM, as the kids would say. Yes you guessed it another flat tyre. Roger shakes his head, Cusho style, and we move on, thanking our lucky stars that we’re on the way anyway – always looking on the bright side of things.

‘Over the range’ is happy to see us – a double whammy – who would have thought.

People of Australia
Set at the back of the thriving business of repairing tyres on the Gibb River Road, is a beautiful outback house, no walls, a creek running alongside the garden, shady trees with an outdoor suite and BBQ pit. The water comes right up to land, no flooding in the wet season, cool breezes all year round, and the peace and quiet of a lifetime. “I’m glad you like it”, he says, “cuz I love it”.

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We arrive at Manning gorge camp site to another beautiful spot, near the facilities and more importantly just a two minute walk from what turns out to be yet another breath-taking natural swimming pool. Crossing the first part in a small boat to save the valuables, we make our way to the gorge through the rocky terrain. And oh what an inspiring sight, complete with waterfalls, relaxing tanning spots and of course refreshing water to cool off from the never ending heat of the Kimberley by day.

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What's wrong with this picture?

What’s wrong with this picture?

Enjoying the view

Enjoying the view

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Playing young boy

Playing young boy

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Always a great sunset

Always a great sunset

Prayers and more prayers

To ensure a space at Mornington you must arrive by 11.00 am, radio in at the entrance and secure a spot – why? – Mornington is a 300 acre wild life reserve and the campsite is 88 km off the main road – a cool 2 hour drive inward. So we arrive at 2.15 pm, try to radio in unsuccessfully, but in true Roger style we venture forth anyway. Lots and lots of prayers later we arrive after 4 and calmly ask for a spot. Thank you Jesus. “Nothing ventured, nothing gained”, quotes my husband.

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Mornington camp site by day and at sunset

Mornington camp site by day and at sunset

We spend the following day at Dimond gorge canoeing, watching birds and sitting on a magnificent plateau at Sir John’s gorge gazing at the sunset. The best time of day. A great end to another great day.

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People of Australia
We met this couple enjoying the peace and quiet that Sir John’s gorge is famous for. Well it was peaceful and quiet until the Trini etc. posse arrived.
“We’re from Melbourne. We’ve done the Europe trips, Spain, Turkey and Italy. But this is just amazing and right in our own backyard.”

Couple from Melbourne

Couple from Melbourne

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Sunset at Sir John's gorge

Sunset at Sir John’s gorge

PS: the reason we were late in arriving at Mornington involved a slight mishap common to adventures across the Gibb River road – you guessed it – a flat tyre. And oh we do things in such a grand way, as you can see for yourself. The funny thing is that as we pulled aside to review the damage, a truck pulls up. This, on a road where you see maybe one vehicle crossing every half hour or so. ” We can help you mate. Just 20k after the Mornington turn off. ” Over the range has been fixing types on the Gibb River road sine 1999 – anything suspicious?

Not just flat - destroyed

Not just flat – destroyed

You wonder whether this was a set up for happy go lucky Trinis

You wonder whether this was a set up for happy go lucky Trinis