Cycling vacation

The long and dusty road…

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With the sun on our back and a smile on our face, we set off on what would be our longest journey – Traful to San Martin de los Andes. Once again following the long and dusty road – 75km to be exact, along the lake Traful , through the beautiful forest of Lenga trees, along the route of Siete Lagos, we were pleasantly surprised to encounter, dotted throughout the countryside, small indigenous farmers with their herds of cattle and sheep. Grazing peacefully were their work horses used to round up the cattle.

We stopped to have lunch at the side of a lake used by the locals to spend quiet moments with their families, swimming and BBQing, which seems to be a favourite Argentine pass time.

Our last leg brought us speeding downhill into the picturesque town of San Martin to de los Andes. Primarily a winter resort, we arrived on a Sunday afternoon, clear blue skies, warm temperature of 22 Degrees C and immediately set out to explore this seemingly sleepy town.

As we meandered through the streets, it was obvious that this was not as sleepy as we had first imagined. As scores of people, everywhere, were chatting with their friends and family, entertaining themselves in one form or fashion – in the plaza dancing to the rhythmic sounds of the drums beating, by the lakeside enjoying the cool breezes and warmth of the setting sun, or simply strolling through the streets enjoying each other’s company.

A great place to spend a well deserved rest day.

And the landscape continues to amaze…

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Having had somewhat of a rest day in Bariloche, we eagerly set out to explore the landscape on our way to Traful – just a mere 35km cycle on undulating gravel road, with its unexpected twists, turns and uphill climbs.

Certainly an ever changing environment – from the awe inspiring scenes around Lake Nahuel Huapi in Bariloche to the impressive rock formations dotted throughout the varying landscape from arid mountains to graps of lush pine trees meandering through and along the Rio Minero.

Cycling on this type of rocky terrain added the extra adventure and earned you the right to take a break, admire your surroundings and move on again.

Traful, a very small town, will, in my estimation, be at least double its size in the next few years. As its tranquility and beauty will certainly be sought after by those wanting to sit back, relax and be amazed.

The journey to Bariloche…

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Smoothe sailing as we cycled primarily down hill watching the changing landscape of Argentina in the drier Pampas region and made our way around the Nahuel Huapi Lake to Bariloche, famous for its world renowned chocolate and situated at the foothills of the Andes. Just as exquisite, the short cycle in and around the growing city which offered indescribable views and a growing sense of tranquility, as we absorbed the beauty of this small winter resort.

I know I’ve been focussing on the sights which is very difficult not to do when you are immersed in such beauty. But there is beauty in everything that surrounds. Bariloche itself is growing and fast, with construction every where you turn. The people are excited as they see you exploring their small town and are happy for you to enjoy their wonderful space, urging you on to the best scenic spots. Just as happy were we to partake in the local food and customs, inclusive of the Sunday line up for what must be the best ice cream in town.

Crossing the Andes…

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Starting in Chile at 1300m and at a temperature of 11 degrees C and after having lunch in the snow, we descended on our bikes through amazing views of the Andes to 700m warming to 19 degrees C, slowing to breathe in the fresh air, stopping at times to capture the different scenes permanently. Quite an exhilarating way to cross the Andes.

Our lodging for the night in Villa Angostura gave us just a glimpse of the exquisite views we were to experience in the days to come. Perched on the lake, we took the opportunity to explore the rocky beach, watched lazily at those engaged in fly fishing and spent the evening feasting on the renowned Argentinian steak and wine. Not a bad way to experience the Patagonia region first hand.

Exploring Patagonia…

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Together with a group of like minded adventure seekers, we set off to explore the Patagonia region on bicycle. From Puerto Montt, a port city in southern Chile’s Lake District, known as a gateway to the Andes mountains and the Patagonia fjords, to Puerto Varas which sits on the southwest banks of the expansive lake Llanquihue where you would normally have great views of the still active volcanoes Osborne and Cajbuco. I say ‘normally’ because as luck would have it our days were interspersed with rain, which, while it made the temperature cool for cycling, the cloud cover was not very much appreciated.

Not to be swayed, however, we traversed the gravel roads, soaked in the amazing views, lush flora and fauna, one kilometer at a time, and in no hurry, all the while dodging the rain.

This scenic route and inclement weather not only offered us the unique opportunity to gawk at the untouched mountainous views around this Chilean Lake district, but brought with it the opportunity to begin the forging of relationships with a haphazard group.

It never ceases to amaze me how people from different walks of life, with just one thing in common, can immediately begin to open themselves up to others, without reserve, with passion and of course a great sense of humour.

It was the first time…

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“It was the first time, and it wouldn’t be the last”…

… I thought, as I clicked my feet into the pedals and rode my bicycle behind the group of cyclists – all of us on a quest to conquer the course ahead. We were but a small group of strangers at first. A small group of travelers intent on experiencing a new country as close to the people as possible. A small group of adventure seekers willing to take on the challenges of unknown terrain, one hill at a time – excited to learn about the country, one village at a time – anxious to capture the essence of this new world, one photograph at a time.

What we managed to do however, unknowingly and, one person at a time, was build relationships with strangers from different parts of the world. Persons who by the very nature of the tour, were open to new experiences and new cultures. Open to willingly sharing our personal journey, exchanging notes and tips, with the primary objective of learning, giving and receiving.

So as we traversed the different scenic terrains, we learned more about a country, a people. We met and bonded with strangers who became our friends. We conquered the course and secretly built our self confidence, each one of us vowing to continue this type of adventure, together or with other like-minded wanderers.

It was the first time, and it hasn’t been the last…

Taste of Tuscany – Siena

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Certainly Siena is the most impressive of the Tuscan towns. As we climb our final ascent into Siena we are filled with pride and a great sense of accomplishment. Along the way we are tempted to take the short and easy road but stay our course and continue along the long and narrow pathways to our final destination.

And well worth the journey – Siena rewards us with its magnificence, grandeur and imposing strength as we meander to our hotel Il Chiostro del Carmine – a former monastery equipped with a small chapel and a welcoming courtyard where we eventually spend cool peaceful pre-dinner wine tastings.

We celebrate the end of our journey with the now expected Prosecco and pasta, but even better we are serenaded with the ringing of the bells from the Santa Maria de Asunto Cathedral. The following day we venture further as we explore the town and its amazing Cathedral – a magnificent showcase of craftsmanship, artistry and simple dedication, with intricate details of biblical history throughout. We are fortunate enough to celebrate a small mass therein the following day.

The stairs within the Museum lead to an amazing view of Siena and we are once again entranced by the beauty of this city and its surroundings.

The days are hot but the nights are cool and we engage in pure Siena hospitality as we embrace the culture of ‘liming’ in the Piazza after dinner, just simply enjoying the moment, the environment and the company.

Happy to be there, happy to be a part, proud of our accomplishments. What started as a simple adventure through the Tuscany Valley, ended with stronger bonds, greater sense of self and one’s own physical ability, and of course, memories that would last a lifetime.

Thank you my friends for sharing your time, determination, good nature and self with us. We look forward to many more exciting journeys together.

 

Taste of Tuscany – Asciano

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A rest day is always welcome. And where better to spend the day than lazing around a hill top hotel overlooking one of the most spectacular views in Tuscany. As with many of these establishments located on vast acreage, the pasta served was freshly made as was the honey, as this is part of their own industry.

Leaving was a bit difficult but knowing that the first part was primarily downhill was certainly an incentive. The Tuscany region once again did not disappoint with its smell of the pine trees, gentle rolling hills and intermittent gravel roads, you truly feel one with nature and the environment as you pass along perfectly manicured vineyards and small towns on the way.

We skirt off course momentarily to visit the Monte Oliveto Maggiore. This is a large Benedictine Abbey located just 10km south of Asciano. The monastery is accessed through a drawbridge which leads to a medieval palace in red brickwork. This structure began in 1393 and was only completed in 1526 and restored in the 19th century. After the entrance you are greeted with a long alley lined with cypress trees surrounding a botanical garden. Strolling through this peaceful place calms you and at the same time energizes you for your journey ahead.

Asciano is a small town with just about 7000 inhabitants. Typical of Tuscany’s history Asciano became the centre of attention between Siena and Florence in the 13th century eventually being won over by the Sienese after the bloodiest battle in the Italian medieval history in 1260.

As usual we arrive at the hottest time of day when all are indoors and the place is quiet and filled with an eire atmosphere. Later in the evening, we are thoroughly entertained by our multitasking receptionist, come bar man, come chef, as he Kariokes the evening away to our personal enjoyment.

 

Taste of Tuscany – Buonconvento

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Life does not begin until you’ve had a close up view of a field of Sunflowers. My journey could have ended today and I would have been the happiest person alive. If you’ve been following my blogs you will surely have noticed that no matter where I am, there will always be a flower that catches my eye. Well the sunflower fields were my heaven-on-earth experience.

The ride today was a bit more challenging to say the least as we scrambled up steep gravel trails, pushed our bikes up some 16% grade hills, cursed the Tuscan heat, and endured the trials and tribulations of cramps and flat tyres.

In the midst of it all though, a small quiet town with a water oasis calmed and relaxed us. Gave us the energy and willpower to carry on and we arrived safely at our destination – weary, weary and did I mention weary?

But as usual the recap of the day, the local wine and beer and the cool breeze that accompanies the amazing sunset, lifted us and we ended the day once again triumphant of what we were able to accomplish and experience.

Stay awake Tuscany – we have not yet finished our journey.

 

Taste of Tuscany – Monteriggioni

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We sleep well. We are up early and get our gear ready to go. We leave San Gimignano, reluctantly, but excited to continue our journey. The scenery changes slightly as we are now exposed to more greenery than the day before. The traffic is minimal and you feel as if you alone occupy this precious space in time. Your mind is at rest. You are peaceful as you cruise through the Tuscan Valley.

The sun continues to caress you with its warmth and you wonder ever so silently – how much more of this Tuscan heat can one take. But as you look around you, the rolling hills, expertly manicured vineyards and strategically placed Cyprus trees, remind you that you are in one of the prettiest places in the world – and your worries melt away as you contemplate your impending stop for lunch.

You enter into a pristine town that cools you by its simple but welcoming presence. You cycle to the nearest charming restaurant and enjoy the hospitality and charm of the Italian countryside. Your thirst is quenched by non other than the local Prosecco and beer and you indulge in the finest pasta and pesto ever.

Refreshed, rejuvenated and probably smiling a bit too much, you continue through the Tuscan hills to your destination Monteriggioni. Nothing however could prepare you for the elegance and grandeur of the Castel Pietraio, our home for the evening. At the end of a 40km cycle in the hot Tuscan sun, your only thoughts are air condition and water. At the Castel you are welcomed like kings and queens, ushered into exquisitely appointed rooms and told that the pool is just a short walk away in the well manicured garden. Wine is served as an aperitif at 7 and you stroll into the village for dinner.

Royal service indeed. What more can you ask for..