Retour À La France …

Cycling Team 2024 – All set and ready to go

Crêpes Grand Marnier. Baguettes. Cafés. Hot Chocolate. Underground bars. Chasing the sun rays. Hitch Hiking. Hostels. Trying to ski. New Friends. Lots of laughter. Missing home. First Winter. Minimal heating. Exploring. Learning. Life’s first adventures.

Just some of the many memories of my year in France several moons ago when I left home for the first time to learn to speak French. A dream of mine for many years. I was dropped off in Grenoble by my very brave father, left in what seemed like a monastery, enrolled at the Université de Grenoble, and the rest is history.

I made some life-long friends. Came away with a good working knowledge of French and most importantly a good working knowledge of life. Learned to live on my own and learned to manoeuvre the intricacies of relationships.

And now to return to this country I once called home for a fleeting moment in time. I feel as if I should know everything but I don’t. My memories are limited to the little town of Grenoble, neatly tucked away at the bottom of the alps where as a student you felt you owned the town.

Looking forward this time to experiencing France as an adult with nowhere to be and lots of time to get there. Wanting most of all to resurrect my knowledge of French hoping to feel as comfortable as I did many years ago.

Our first day included a round trip from St. Rémy to Château des Beaux de Provence. Cycling along the cycle paths through the peaceful countryside, stumbling upon the ruins of an aqueduct and eventually exploring the Château des Beaux, an ancient medieval fortress which attracts many tourists for its amazing views, quaint shopping and interesting restaurants. But at the same time represents a warring history since the 11th Century. Its ruinous buildings add charm and intrigue. And as you venture to the top, the view opens up unexpectedly as far as Marseille leaving you gratified that you took the time to slowly explore the ins and outs of this amazing Château.

The following days just kept getting better and better. Beautiful weather. Cool breezes. Apple orchards. Open fields. Mountain Views. Quiet cycle paths. Rolling hills presenting a challenging ride. Passing through the small towns of Moleges, Saint Andiol, Plan d’Organ stopping in others for lunch and the much needed beverage.

Crispy cold white wine and local beers make the cycle all the more worthwhile. Chatting on the way, stopping to take the must-have pics to preserve our memories of this journey. At no time imagining the beauty of the towns before us.

La Fontaine de Vaucluse captured our hearts.

Upon approaching we stopped off at what we believe to be a beautiful respite for the day. What seems to be a river with clear water emerald in colour, lined by stone buildings centuries old carefully preserved. We admire those daring to venture into the water on kayaks imagining that the water is near freezing. Thanks but no thanks.

But as we coast into la Fontaine de Vaucluse we are struck by the unassuming beauty of this town. Large Sycamore trees encircle the Centre fountain making for a cosy welcoming atmosphere. The chitter chatter in the restaurants that surround, the babbling of the water flowing in and around the town, the cobblestone streets make it the perfect stop for the next two nights.

We make the most of our stay by exploring the narrow streets, searching for the source of the water and finally hiking up the steep stoney pathway to the ruins of an old castle on the hill taking in the majestic views from the top.

I finally taste my first real French Crepe Grand Mariner in what feels like a century, and all is good. Bringing back memories of a time long ago when my journey had only just begun.

And so it went from St. Rémy to Châteaux des Beaux, La Fontaine de Vaucluse to l’Isle sur la Sorgue, Roussillon, Cavaillon…. One enchanting village after another. Capturing your heart with its authenticity and charm. Comforting you with its wine and food.

Adding to my memories of Crêpes Grand Marnier, Baguettes, Cafés with Escargots, Wine, Cycle paths, open fields, Apple Orchards, Vineyards, Biking, Fine Dining. Let’s not forget the laughter and friendship that will last a lifetime.

I love Madeira

It’s been a long time coming my visit to Madeira. The fascination began many years ago when I learned that my great great grandfather left the island towards the beginning of the 20th century in search of more peaceful lands due to religious persecution by the Catholic clergy of Funchal. It always seemed like a fairy tale imagining him escaping in the dark of the night aboard a pirate ship huddled with his family seeking a new life in the far off Caribbean. Landing on the rich soil of Trinidad and Tobago, happy at last to be able to build a future for his family. A child’s imagination for sure, but one which has stayed with me.

In one word Madeira is enchanting. It has been described as “an oasis of green in the Atlantic Ocean”. Its spring-like climate and rich soil are indeed the major ingredients for the lush environment across the island. Its flora is very similar to the Caribbean and yet everything grows in a more prolific manner. Even though it is located in what seems like in the middle of the ocean with a meagre size of 55k x 22k, Madeira is not in harm’s way of major weather systems.

According to Tom Mullen ‘Madeira is an oddly unique geographical and cultural blip—a rich little universe of rough mountains and lush slopes slapped by Atlantic breakers off the coast of Africa.’ A more apt description I could not find.

The people are proud of their island and over the years primarily through necessity, have created easy access to some of the most challenging and awe-inspiring treks through its lush mountains. Centuries ago its people would spend days sometimes weeks crossing the mountains to visit family and friends and in some instances earn a living. Now with the construction of tunnels upon tunnels, connection between the four points of the island is no longer a deterrent.

Simply put though the place is a small paradise. The people are warm and inviting. Yes it is a tourist destination particularly popular with the British, but apart from the different languages being spoken in the streets indicating the presence of foreigners, you feel yourself one with the culture and slip into this peaceful easy life the locals treasure.

We took the opportunity to explore the island by car and by foot, touring the northwestern tip of the island through the forests, dipping in the ocean and exploring the tropical gardens at the top of the mountain. Trekking the Pico de Areeiro has to have been the highlight of our visit. Words nor pictures can fully capture its beauty. The experience of walking along the 5ft wide trails at the top of the mountain shrouded in the clouds with views of hills and valleys on either side, stepping gently through dark tunnels, walking along the 3ft ledges at the edge of the mountain, traversing the peaks at 1800m. Challenging, exhilarating, mind-blowing – just some of the adjectives that come to mind.

Oh gosh let’s not talk about the food. Seafood of all sorts. I’ve fallen in love with Risotto. I can’t say I love the Madeira wine, but Portuguese red, white and verde – oh my word.

We spent a mere 4 days. I fell in love with my motherland. I am a proud descendant. I left reluctantly with memories that will last a lifetime.

Returning to Greece

The last time I visited Athens, I was in my late teens and I won’t even try to count how many years ago as I’ll get lost in the numbers. My memories have faded somewhat though. I do remember visiting the Acropolis. I remember pretending to be on stage in the ruins of an amphitheater, mike in hand, singing Lord alone knows what. And I remember the excitement of the Plaka with its array of restaurants and local food choices. What stays with me in vivid colour however is being lost in love with my now husband as we experienced Europe together, ‘training’ it from one city to the next, stopping at whim in small towns that caught our fancy.

And it is clear to me now more than ever that your memories will always be just that – the feelings, the emotions evoked throughout your life. Visiting Athens now is a different experience. I am at a totally different stage of life and even though my focus may seem to be capturing the beauty of the city through my camera lens, I know that these special moments shared with family and friends will be what brings that sweet smile to my face when I look back on the adventures in my life.

Sharing good times with family and friends

Greece will always hold the mystery and allure of its ancient mythology. The Gods who ruled the skies and the earth. The Gods who ruled your heart and your destiny. I remember being captured by it as a teenager, dreaming, wishing that I had been part of this enigma years ago. And now as I re-visit and explore its islands, I am fascinated by its ancient history that is still so present and the masterful landscapes that have been created over time, by the hand of nature, or their Gods.

I have returned now for a ‘big fat Greek wedding’ on the island of Milos. With its 5000 welcoming inhabitants, its arid terrain, and island charm, it brings back flashes of our previous visit to Santorini and Mykonos when we were met by ladies dressed in black at the port offering rooms in their homes for rent (Airbnb entrepreneurs). Their hospitality second to none. Walking through the narrow streets hand in hand admiring the beauty of the monochromatic buildings in their blue and white. Seeking out the secluded beaches where we could spend precious time together. And of course experiencing the night life for which these islands were renowned.

Now as we explore Milos, the fun, adventure and charm of the islands continue to captivate. At first sight Milos seems very underwhelming. Its airport will either scare you or charm the pants off of you. But as you explore the island more closely it will amaze you. The Luna-like landscape which initially jarred because of its aridity becomes fascinating. The strip mining quarries expose the diverse colours of the earth in a majestic, almost painterly manner. The peaceful nature of the sandy/pebbly beaches beckon, the varying blues of the clear waters draw you in. The food which stays true to its Greek origins, excites your taste buds and once again the memories are created for a lifetime.

There is never enough time …

Six weeks gone in a flash, leaving very many precious moments etched into my heart.  Many times I felt as if I could not hold them long enough, just one more minute please.  Not enough books to read.  Not enough time at the beach.  Not enough walks to the park.  Just not enough time.  That sweet smile, that warm hug, that soft small hand in mine.  That wicked giggle.  That morning snuggle.  It is never enough.

My blessings are many and I am truly grateful.

Just a short eight months ago I left Julius at 4 months old.  He turned one a few days ago.  And he is the same sweet angel with the biggest smile and warmest cuddle.  He knows what he wants and how to get it pointing excitedly, squealing ‘da da da’.  His wide-mouthed smile of pride when he stands on his own melts your heart.  His eyes alit, his arms outstretched for balance as he looks around for the clapping sounds of praise, quickly dropping to the floor and zipping across on all fours to his next antic.

Wyatt, now two, has started to replace his incoherent sounds with words you can actually understand.  He is non-stop action.  Walking is never an option.  He is either running or riding or running – whichever way gets him from one spot to the next in the shortest space of time.  Talking constantly with an array of facial expressions and complementary sounds that complete his stories that we still can’t easily decipher.  His love of music, the water and food is undeniable and he is up for playtime always.  He is confident, has no fear, is sometimes defiant, as a two-year old is expected to be, but always ready for a hug.

Solomon is quite the chatter box himself.  He has grown up in many ways and having turned three, has adjusted nicely to his big brother role.  He loves his Baby Ju Ju – and more and more his heavy loving is being replaced with gentle caresses and less tight hugs, always ready to comfort him.  His wicked streak however, still lurking in the background.  He always has a ‘flan’ (plan), and quite an intricately interesting plan as well.  His collection of seeds and small insects, dead or alive, is testament to his love of nature and his empathy which sees him trying to save even the smallest creature.  He loves a good adventure whether it be going to the beach or exploring the nearby creeks and waterfalls.  Eating may not be his favourite pastime, but his insatiable love of berries, preferably blue, is unparalleled.

They have all captured a special place in my heart which is full to overflowing.  Full of gratitude.  Full of memories to last a lifetime.  Overflowing with love.

Bermuda

As a child, Bermuda was synonymous with the legendary Bermuda Triangle, also known as the Devil’s Triangle, a place somewhere in the North Atlantic Ocean where planes and ships were reported to have disappeared under mysterious circumstances.  Even though this myth has been dismissed by the experts, it is still ever present in my mind.

Bermuda is in fact an archipelago consisting of over 150 islands with the most significant being connected by bridges, making it appear as one landmass.  You can literally run from one part of Bermuda to the other in just over 8 hours depending on your level of fitness.  Or if you prefer, you can simply drive around at your leisure in less than a day.  But what it lacks in size, it certainly makes up for in beauty.

It is located out in the middle of what seems like nowhere, approximately 1000 km to the west-northwest of North Carolina.  Even though I live on an island myself, it’s still kind of scary living so far away from any other landmass, considering the increasing number of hurricanes recorded annually off the east coast of the US.  But in essence Bermuda, even though it has experienced the wrath of hurricanes over the decades, receives some protection from a coral reef, and its position at the north of the hurricane Alley limits the direction and severity of approaching storms.  As safe a place to be I imagine, as any of the other Caribbean islands.

Bermuda remains one of the British Overseas Territories. With a population of just over 71,000, its inhabitants reflect its rich history of slavery, colonisation and migration with descendants from Africa, Britain, America, Portugal and the mixtures in between.  The buildings whether commercial or residential share a similar paint pallet all with white roofs, giving it a feeling of unity and purpose.  A very warm and welcoming people greet you and you immediately slip into the vacation-I’m-gonna-have-a-great-time mode. With an ocean view at your every turn, you remain calm, relaxed and always with a smile on your face.

We were fortunate to spend our time with some long-time friends or ‘locals’ as you would say, affording us the privilege of visiting every nook and cranny of this wonderful island by land and sea.  From St. Georges at one end to the Royal Naval Dockyard at the other end of the island and all the beautiful beaches, hilltop views, walking trails and restaurants in between.

Thanks to our very generous and gracious hosts, I’d say a time very well spent.

Until we meet again…

What a fabulous introduction to our grandchildren. 

Julius – 4 months at the end of our holiday – captured our heart – always ready to smile, never fussing (unless hungry of course), always happy for a hug and kiss and a morning walk, listening to the birds singing and his Grandma’s lullaby ‘Little boy’.  What an absolute pleasure. Spitting image of his mother, with his grandmother’s complexion – perfect.  He’s won the ‘Angel of the Year’ award.

Wyatt, a 15-month-old with music in his soul and love in his heart – does not stop moving or ‘talking’.  Always strumming a ‘guitar’, with an intimate relationship with ‘Exa’ (Alexa) who seems to respond appropriately to his random requests to play ‘Too’ (Bob Marley) – dances to all music and always has a story to tell.  The way to his heart is definitely through his stomach – a pleasure to feed – who shows his appreciation for everything with the random kiss.  No fear of water and keeps you on your toes at the beach.  A character you can only love to the moon and back.

Solomon, our eldest – adores his brother, Baby Ju-Ju, smothering him constantly with ‘gentle’ hugs and sloppy kisses, loves his cousin Wyatt with a wicked streak that overrides this love at times.  After six weeks, we still need a translator for his Aussie accent, but we managed.  You’re drawn in from the get-go, as he slips his little hand in yours and beckons you to ‘come Grandma’.  Loves an adventure and is extremely aware of his surroundings.  Gives great morning hugs and is enraptured by ‘Moana’.

He is sensitive and caring.  When his cousin left us for the last time, he noticed tears in my eyes and asked why I was sad.  ‘I miss Wyatt’ I said.  ‘Me too Grandma’ and he continued to keep me distracted by catching fish with our pretend rods and telling me stories of whatever came to his mind.  As I watched him play minutes before my final departure, he again noticed tears in my eyes and asked, ‘Why you sad Grandma’.  ‘I am going to miss you’ I said.  ‘I love you so much’.  ‘I love you too’, he whispered.

The tears have not stopped flowing.  Until we meet again my boys.

Time is drawing near…

It’s 4 in the afternoon.  Still a few hours until nightfall.  The birds are singing, chirping, squawking, such a variety nesting in the area.  The rest of the world is quiet in the small town of Tyalgum, Australia.  The gentle breeze is soothing and relaxing and my cup of tea makes it all a very serene moment, giving me time to reflect.

My two eldest sons have now been living in Australia for the better part of the past 16 years – my eldest moved here as a teenager to further his university studies and decided to make this country his home.  My second son moved here with his wife (then girlfriend) about 6 years ago.  Both now have 3 sons between them, and I am a very proud grandmother.

My husband and I have been here now for just about 4 weeks, and the time is flying by ever so quickly.  Using our time and talents to help our sons with their growing families.  Enjoying the precious time spent with our grandchildren – meeting them practically for the first time, after leaving our eldest two years ago at the tender age of 3 months.  We were greeted by two little confident, loving, funny, chatty, determined toddlers and one sweet 3 month-old angel – our hearts melted instantly and we immediately felt the dread of leaving them in the short six weeks ahead.

How does that work.  How is it that you can fall so deeply in love with little humans with just a smile, a snuggle, a giggle.  I will never understand.

We’ve been busy travelling back and forth between their homes – an hour’s drive each way – and have come to love this part of the country.  Tyalgum boasts of just over 500 residents and is nestled in the foothills of Mount Warning, the world’s largest extinct shield volcano, surrounded by farmlands, mountains, creeks and rivers which make this area such a joy to explore.  The centre of the town itself can be leisurely visited in just a short 10 minutes and has all the necessities including a cricket oval, a playground for kids, ice cream parlour, general store and of course, a bottle shop. Sunday afternoon is their busy day when the neighbours gather at the local pub for a quick meal and a beer or two, while being entertained by a live band made up of members of the community.  Charming indeed.

Mullumbimby, Australia’s biggest little town, is a bit larger with just over 3,000 residents and seems like a metropolis in comparison.  When you first arrive, it feels like a one-horse-town with not much action but that is part of the charm of Mullumbimby. It is known for its cafes serving world class coffee, quite often locally grown, and its choice of restaurants, local bakery and butcher, all your needs being met within a stone’s throw away.  The weekly Saturday market offers an opportunity for the neighbours to meet each other, share a meal, and of course be serenaded by the local artists.  A simple life, no fuss, no bother.  Locally the town is known as Mullum. Back in the day, this town grew weed so potent it was known as Mullum Madness – go figure. Fashion is alternative and shoes are always optional.

Both towns exude a simplicity of life and ease of living.  A haven for young children where the outdoors beckon, the rivers pique your curiosity for exploring, the trails easy to venture.

We’ve been joyfully busy.  Grateful for every moment shared. But the reality is that we will leave in a short two weeks, having put our life on pause for our grandchildren.  Creating memories that we hope will build a base for many more to come.

Glamping, Lumbre style…

I remember as a child watching the movie “Sound of Music” over and over again.  I shamelessly admit that I’ve also seen it as an adult multiple times.  And every time that I’ve had the opportunity to hike across the ridge of a mountain, my mind goes back to that scene when the Von Trapp family leave Austria and escape to Switzerland.

Lumbre offered that experience, with cows grazing on the hills, open landscape as far as the eye can see, and as a special treat, what seemed like a secret hike through the forest to an enchanting waterfall – our own private escape.  Such a perfect way to spend a beautiful sunny morning just oustide the small quaint town of Salento nestled in the Cocora Valley.

For those of us who think they want to go camping but aren’t quite ready to sleep on the ground, who want to enjoy the simplicity and beauty that nature has to offer, to wake up to gentle breezes and the chirping of the birds, to be pampered and catered to by the most gracious of hosts, Glamping at Lumbre will fulfil all of your desires and more.  With hiking trails just 100m away, horseback riding at your whim and even the extreme pampering of a masseuse, if you so desire.  A treat for bird watchers.

Our short 3 night stay wasn’t enough.  If there’s one place you want to put on your bucket list – this is it.

Salento – Touring the Wax Palm Forest in the Cocora Valley

We arrived in Salento late into the night, in pouring rain, cold, damp and hungry.  What was supposed to be a 5-hour drive from Jardin stretched into an 8-hour journey due to unforeseen traffic and road works.  Needless to say we were tired and after a quick dinner, bundled into our ‘Glamping accomodation’ and fell asleep before anybody could say “Jack Sprat”.

As we emerged from our tents in the morning, the beauty of the surrounding mountains, the sound of the birds chirping and the cows mooing in the distance immediately erased any displeasures we may have experienced the day before. We were on the Lumbre farm in the Cocora Valley situated in Quindio, Colombia, located in the Central Cordillera of the Andean mountains.  What an absolutely beautiful morning view.  And the day had only just begun.

For we were about to embark on a tour of the Carbonera estate known for its Wax Palms and amazing views.  We chose however to do this tour with a local guide (www.salentocycling.com) in what could only be described as an unconventional way – not only hiking through farm lands bordering the Wax Palm forest, but exploring what is known as the Cloud Forest on dirt road bikes.

We met our exuberant guide Eduardo in Salento and once fitted with our gear, climbed into the back of a Jeep and made our way 20 km up to 11000’ up into the estate.  Rumbling along the rocky dirt road we eventually arrived at our first point of decent – an 8k downhill bike ride which took us to the start of our trek to the Wax Palms.

Amazing views awaited us as we climbed up and down the gentle slopes back to the top where we picnicked relishing in the peace and quiet of the nature that surrounded us.  And then the adventure really began as we were carried back up to the top and jumped on our bikes to make the final 20k ride downhill back to Salento.

The cloud forest, at a temperature of roughly 18C provided mystery at every turn as we could see just 10 meters ahead at any one time.  As we descended further the views of the Cocora valley opened up once more and we were treated to the mooing of cows and even accompanied by a couple of young foals who galloped alongside us for part of the journey.  The excitement building, adrenaline pumping as we had just experienced the tour of a lifetime.

The pictures speak for themselves, and the memories etched in our minds forever.

Jardin – A small town with a big heart

We pulled up in front of our hotel perfectly located on the picturesque square, El Libertador Park,  of the small town of Jardin, located in northwest Colombia.  We gasped at the imposing presence of the neo-Gothic Basilica of the Immaculate Conception which towered over the square in all its glory.  The square was encircled by tents with vendors of local food and art, restaurants full to the brim of customers enjoying their Sunday lunch, parents sitting amongst the rose gardens, while their young children ran around chasing the birds, laughing with their friends.

We smiled, and immediately fell in love with the sheer beauty of Jardin, known for its brightly painted houses, colorful floral displays and milk candies.  We too began to laugh and chit chat as we wandered in and around the stalls and shops making our way to the nearest local restaurant for lunch.  A normal Sunday, in a small quiet town.

As the afternoon continued, we began to notice young children in their costumes, likewise teenagers and some adults.  It was Halloween we were reminded, but nothing prepared us for the unfolding events that would take place as the sun set on what we thought was the sweet quiet town of Jardin, Antiquoia.

While relaxing on our balcony overlooking the square, we noticed crowds lining the streets under our noses, music from bands began to play on the other side of the plaza, the stalls that were selling local art and candies filled the air with the inviting smells of street food.  The town had come alive in a way totally unexpected.

And then we realized that we were about to witness a parade of Halloween bands, not unlike the Carnival parade of ‘Ole Mas’ bands we are accustomed to in our small twin island of Trinidad and Tobago. This parade however not only featured the well orchestrated bands as they marched or danced pass but also included a large contingent of motorcyclists showing off their road skills.   The revving of their bikes, intermingled with the sounds of the orchestra, the costumed participants of all ages and the varying methods of expression, made for a highly energetic display much appreciated by all.

We were thoroughly entertained and left this sweet town with its unsuspecting vitality imprinted on our hearts.